Evergreen structure in gardens: principles, practise, pitfalls and planting insight

Staying green while other plants lose their leaves

Evergreen structure is the quiet architecture of a garden. It is the backbone that stays standing through winter storms, summer heat and all the in-between months. When perennials retreat and grasses collapse, it is the evergreens that hold everything together and stop the garden feeling empty.

People often ask “How many plants do I put in my garden?” and the honest answer is that the number matters far less than the balance. A very common mistake, especially among amateur gardeners, is to overlook evergreen plants completely or to treat them as an optional extra. Others add just one or two and hope for the best. The result is a garden that looks lively in summer but loses all shape and confidence in winter.

Evergreen plants are not background fillers. They are the structural bones of the space. When they are used well, they give the garden its outline, its rhythm and its year round identity. When they are used badly, or used too sparingly, the garden feels flat for half

Why evergreen structure matters

Evergreen structure shapes a garden in three important ways.

• It anchors the layout

Evergreens give borders and paths a clear outline so the space feels intentional. This becomes even more visible in winter, when the shapes and lines of the garden are exposed.

• It provides rhythm and repetition

Repeating the same evergreen forms guides the eye through the garden and prevents borders from feeling scattered. As Craig Davis explains:

“Repeat forms, not just plants. A simple rhythm of similar shapes is one of the easiest ways to make a garden feel designed.”

• It supports the garden in its off season

Most gardens slump from November to March. Perennials vanish and deciduous shrubs lose their leaves. Evergreen structure keeps the garden standing through the quiet months, so it still feels cared for and intentional.

How much of the garden should be evergreen?

A well balanced garden usually works best with 30 to 40 per cent evergreen planting. This gives enough structure for clarity without losing softness or seasonality.

This proportion is supported by respected UK gardening sources.

• The RHS notes that “normally at least a third of the shrubs in a border will be evergreen or semi evergreen”.

• The English Garden recommends “at least 40 per cent evergreen or winter interest plants” for a garden that looks good year round.

• Hillier highlights that evergreens provide “height, texture and a backdrop”, especially when herbaceous plants die back.

Craig Davis captures it neatly:

“A third evergreen is enough for clarity. More than that and you are designing formality, less and you are designing confusion.”

Balance the evergreen structure well and the rest of the planting becomes easier. Perennials have shape to play against. Grasses gain contrast. Bulbs shine more brightly in late winter.

Evergreen percentage by garden style

Light and natural planting

20 to 25 per cent evergreen

Keeps borders open and soft while still maintaining shape.

Mixed borders

30 to 35 per cent evergreen

Ideal for most UK domestic gardens and modern planting styles.

Contemporary gardens

35 to 40 per cent evergreen

Modern layouts rely on clear lines and repetition, which benefit from stronger evergreen structure.

Formal gardens

40 to 50 per cent evergreen

Geometric layouts depend on evergreen reliability and shape, although varied foliage stops things feeling heavy.

Quick practical guide

• Roughly one in every three plants should be evergreen.

• In a border of nine to twelve plants per square metre, three to five should be evergreen.

• Smaller gardens generally need more evergreen structure.

• Larger, looser gardens can use less, as long as shape remains clear.

Principles for good evergreen structure

Be intentional, not excessive

Use evergreens where structure is needed: corners, key sightlines, long border runs and points of visual rest.

Craig Davis offers a simple placement rule:

“Put evergreens where the eye naturally rests, not where you hope people won’t notice them. Structure should feel deliberate.”

Mix forms, not just species

Strong structure comes from shape. Combine:

• mounds

• upright forms

• loose natural shrubs

• clipped cubes or domes

• spreading ground-level evergreens

Match the garden style

Cottage gardens prefer softer evergreens. Contemporary gardens suit crisp forms. Front gardens can take stronger structure for neatness.

Think in layers

Evergreens should sit comfortably with:

• deciduous shrubs

• grasses

• perennials

• bulbs

This creates a balanced planting picture through all seasons.

Common pitfalls

• Overuse of large evergreens

  Species such as Prunus laurocerasus or Griselinia littoralis can dominate a garden, blocking sightlines and casting dense shade. This often suppresses underplanting and reduces seasonal variation, leading to a flat, static appearance.

• Ignoring mature size

  Plants chosen for their initial neatness—especially shrubs in containers—can rapidly outgrow their space. This results in overcrowding, increased maintenance, and the need for frequent pruning, which can distort natural form.

• Excess of dark foliage

  Deep green foliage absorbs light and can make a space feel enclosed. Balancing this with lighter, variegated, or silver-leaved plants (such as Elaeagnus or Pittosporum) improves contrast and visual depth.

• Neglecting winter light

  In winter, low sun angles and shorter days amplify the heaviness of dark evergreen planting. Positioning lighter foliage or deciduous plants in shaded areas helps reflect light and maintain openness year-round.

• Insufficient repetition of evergreens

  A single evergreen shape or specimen can feel disconnected. Repeating forms, heights, or species establishes rhythm, structure, and continuity across the space, especially in winter when other planting recedes.

Craig Davis says it plainly:

“Most gardens don’t fail because of the flowers. They fail because the structure beneath them is missing for half the year and chaotic for the other half."

The evergreen shortlist

Taxus baccata (Yew)

Use: Domes, hedges, cubes, formal structure

Pros: Elegant appearance, slow-growing, extremely long-lived, excellent for shaping

Cons: Requires good drainage; toxic if ingested

Pittosporum tenuifolium (cultivars)

Use: Soft mounding forms, informal structure

Pros: Light foliage adds contrast; creates gentle rhythm in planting schemes

Cons: Unsuitable for exposed or cold sites

Osmanthus × burkwoodii

Use: Compact evergreen structure

Pros: Naturally neat habit; shade tolerant; highly scented spring flowers

Cons: Slow-growing, especially when young

Elaeagnus × ebbingei

Use: Screening and wind protection

Pros: Very tough; bright foliage; strongly scented autumn flowers

Cons: Needs space to develop; can become leggy if over-pruned

Sarcococca confusa

Use: Structural planting in shade

Pros: Evergreen; excellent winter scent; reliable in low-light conditions

Cons: Slow but steady growth rate

Viburnum tinus

Use: Evergreen backdrop or boundary planting

Pros: Winter and early spring flowers provide seasonal interest

Cons: Leaves may develop spotting in wet or cold winters

Euonymus japonicus ‘Green Spire’

Use: Vertical accents and modern structure

Pros: Slim, columnar habit; tidy growth; ideal for contemporary designs

Cons: Limited width reduces screening potential

Prunus laurocerasus ‘Sofia’

Use: Compact hedging or backdrop planting

Pros: Lighter, denser habit than standard laurel; avoids bulk and heaviness

Cons: Still requires regular management

Euphorbia characias / Euphorbia × martinii

Use: Architectural evergreen highlights

Pros: Strong structure; early flowering; excellent contrast with shrubs

Cons: Short-lived; sap is irritant

Euphorbia mellifera

Use: Feature evergreen plant

Pros: Broad foliage; honey-scented spring flowers; strong architectural presence

Cons: Requires shelter; dislikes hard frost

If you only choose a few evergreen plants to give your garden shape, choose:

• Taxus baccata

• Pittosporum tenuifolium

• Osmanthus × burkwoodii

• Sarcococca confusa

• Elaeagnus × ebbingei

• Prunus ‘SOFIA’

• Euonymus ‘Green Spire’

• Euphorbia characias / Euphorbia × martinii

• Euphorbia mellifera

These provide a mix of height, texture, scent and reliability.

Evergreen plants that did not make the shortlist

Buxus sempervirens (Box)

Issues:

• Highly vulnerable to box blight and box tree moth

• Requires intensive maintenance to remain healthy and presentable

• Increasingly unreliable in long-term planting schemes

  
  

Standard Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)

Issues:

• Excessively large and coarse for most garden settings

• Casts deep shade, suppressing surrounding plants

• Rapid growth can overwhelm borders and reduce design clarity

  
  

Inappropriate Conifers

Issues:

• Many species outgrow their intended space

• Difficult to combine successfully with perennials and mixed planting

• Dense form and colour can feel visually heavy in small gardens

Building a garden by pairing evergreens and other plants

Using evergreens with perennials and grasses

Evergreens bring stillness. Perennials and grasses bring movement.

Together they create gardens that feel alive and structured.

Good combinations

• yew domes with Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’

• Pittosporum ‘Tom Thumb’ with Astrantia

• Osmanthus with Helleborus

• Elaeagnus with tall Miscanthus

Add bulbs

Snowdrops, crocuses, alliums and tulips brighten winter and spring.

Planting and maintenance tips

• Improve drainage before planting.

• Clip with intention, not out of habit.

• Water well in the first season.

• Replace failing plants quickly to protect the structure.